Christiansø Island
Christiansø is the largest of the so-called “Pea Islands” (Ertholmerne), named for their small size, located about 20 kilometres east of the Baltic Sea island of Bornholm. The island measures approximately 710 by 430 metres and is connected to the smaller neighbouring island of Frederiksø by a 30-metre-long swing bridge. The narrow, sheltered passage between the two islands forms a harbour protected from storms.
The rocky islands have been inhabited and fortified since 1684. King Christian V, after whom they are named, had them developed into a naval base. They still belong to the Danish Ministry of Defence.
Those looking for a vivid example of nature reclaiming what it once lost can find one on Christiansø. The quarries used to build the fortifications now serve as cisterns for drinking-water collection, since the islands have no groundwater. Eider ducks nest amid old cannons right beside the paths. As early as 1702, the small island of Græsholm was declared a bird sanctuary. It is home to Denmark’s only colony of guillemots.
The approximately 90 permanent residents live mostly on Frederiksø. A doctor, two teachers and shipping officials are employed by the state.
During the warmer months, boats from Allinge, Svaneke or Gudhjem bring up to 1,200 day-trippers daily from the island of Bornholm to Christiansø. The harbour is also a welcome stopover for recreational sailors. Even discerning gourmets will find something to enjoy at the island’s restaurant.
Christiansø is almost exclusively a destination for day-trippers, as there are only seven guest rooms besides a small campsite. A visit to Bornholm without a trip to Christiansø is hard to imagine.
Hafen von Christiansø
Photo: © Rainer Höll